Watchatlas

Zodiac

Le Locle, Switzerland · Est. 1882

Founded by Ariste Calame

Zodiac was founded in Le Locle in 1882 and was known during the 20th century for its Sea Wolf dive watch — one of the first commercially available dive watches — and distinctive cushion-shaped Aerospace GMT. Owned by Fossil Group since 2001, the brand continues to produce re-editions of its vintage classics.

Founded
1882
Headquarters
Le Locle, Switzerland
Group
Other
Price Segment
Mid
Status
Active

Key Collections

  • Sea Wolf — Zodiac's legendary dive watch, first introduced in 1953 as one of the first purpose-built commercial dive watches, predating the Rolex Submariner.
  • Super Sea Wolf — Evolution of the Sea Wolf from the early 1970s, rated to 750 metres and used by US Navy SEALs, now the brand's core modern collection.
  • Aerospace — GMT watch introduced in 1960 inspired by the Sea Wolf design, featuring a dual-colour bezel and red GMT hand for travellers.

Timeline

  • 1882 — Ariste Calame founds a watch workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland, originally under his own name.
  • 1908 — The name 'Zodiac' is officially registered as the brand name.
  • 1930 — Introduces the Autographic, a self-winding watch with a power-reserve indicator, unbreakable crystal, and water resistance.
  • 1953 — Launches the Sea Wolf, one of the first commercially produced dive watches, ahead of the Rolex Submariner.
  • 1960 — Releases the Aerospace GMT, expanding beyond dive watches into travel-oriented timepieces.
  • 1971 — Introduces the Super Sea Wolf rated to 750 metres with a patented crown system, adopted by US Navy SEALs.
  • 2001 — Acquired by Fossil Group, which revives heritage models while maintaining Swiss manufacturing in Bienne.
  • 2015 — Under Fossil Group, Zodiac relaunches heritage models including the Super Sea Wolf, tapping into the vintage dive watch revival.
  • 2023 — Launches the Sea-Chron diver's chronograph, combining the brand's dive heritage with chronograph functionality.
  • 2025 — Parent company Fossil Group files Chapter 15 bankruptcy in October 2025. Zodiac identified as a core brand to be preserved. Massive clearance sales see watches at up to 85% off retail. Restructuring finalised November 2025.
  • 2026 — Releases the Zodiac x GiantMouse Pro-Diver Automatic watch and dive knife set, a cross-category collaboration blending horology with EDC culture.

Frequently Asked Questions about Zodiac

Is Zodiac a Swiss brand?
Founded in 1882 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Zodiac is now owned by Fossil Group (USA) but manufacturing remains in Bienne, Switzerland, maintaining its Swiss Made heritage.
What is the Zodiac Sea Wolf?
Launched in 1953, the Sea Wolf was one of the first commercially produced dive watches. It predated the Rolex Submariner and remains Zodiac's most iconic model.
Who owns Zodiac today?
Fossil Group acquired Zodiac in 2001. The brand continues to produce Swiss-made watches focused on its dive-watch heritage, particularly the Super Sea Wolf line.

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