Rolex / Submariner
Rolex Submariner
Profil de collection · 1953
Montre de plongée iconique introduite en 1953, étanche à 300 mètres, et l'un des designs de montre les plus reconnus au monde.
Vues de la collection
Prononciation et nom
sub-muh-REE-ner
Collectors usually stress the third syllable: Submariner, not “submarine-er”.
Pourquoi elle compte
The Submariner is the template for the modern luxury dive watch: rotating bezel, luminous dial, Oyster case, and enough design continuity to make old and new references immediately recognizable.
Références clés
Chronologie de la collection
- 1953 — Rolex introduces the Submariner as a purpose-built waterproof dive watch.
- 1969 — The reference 1680 brings a date display to the Submariner line.
- 1988 — The 16610 era modernizes the Submariner Date with sapphire crystal and updated movement architecture.
- 2010 — Ceramic-bezel Submariner Date references move the collection into its modern Cerachrom period.
- 2020 — Rolex updates the line to 41 mm references 124060 and 126610.
Actualités
- Rolex updates the Submariner family to a 41 mm generation 2020 — The modern 124060 and 126610 references introduced new-generation calibres and refined case proportions while keeping the core Submariner design language intact. ↗
- No-date, black-date, and green-bezel Date references anchor the contemporary lineup Current collection — The official catalogue presents the Submariner as a compact family around Oystersteel references and the modern Cerachrom bezel system. ↗
- Explorer-dial Submariner 5513 sells for CHF 88,200 2021 — Phillips sold a circa-1963 Rolex Submariner reference 5513 with Explorer dial, showing how early and unusual dial configurations drive vintage Submariner interest. ↗
- Red Submariner 1680 sells for CHF 37,500 2015 — A Rolex Submariner reference 1680 “Red Submariner” sold at Phillips, a useful market marker for the first-date Submariner generation. ↗
- Prototype white-gold Submariner 1680 highlights the model family’s rare edge cases 2026 — Christie’s catalogued an exceptionally rare prototype 18k white-gold Submariner reference 1680, underlining how unusual materials and prototypes change the collector conversation. ↗
Anecdotes
A design that barely needs a logo
The rotating bezel, Mercedes hands, round markers, and Oyster bracelet have become a visual shorthand for the entire dive-watch category.
Watchatlas editorial note
Green became a collector signal
Rolex green-bezel Submariner Date references turned a small color change into one of the easiest modern Submariner variants to recognize.
Watchatlas editorial note
FAQ
What is the most classic modern Rolex Submariner reference?
The 124060 is the cleanest modern expression: a no-date Oystersteel Submariner with calibre 3230 and a symmetrical dial.
What is the difference between the Submariner and Submariner Date?
The Submariner is time-only, while Submariner Date references add a date window and Cyclops lens. Modern Date references use calibre 3235.
Why do collectors care about the 5513 and 1680?
The 5513 is one of the great long-running vintage no-date Submariners, while the 1680 introduced the date display to the family.
Plus de Rolex
- Daytona
— Chronographe conçu à l'origine pour les pilotes automobiles, nommé d'après le Daytona International Speedway. Parmi les montres les plus recherchées sur le marché secondaire. - Datejust — La première montre-bracelet automatique à afficher la date dans un guichet sur le cadran (1945), et la collection Rolex la plus polyvalente et durable.
- Day-Date
— Lancée en 1956 comme première montre à afficher le jour et la date, connue comme la montre « President » pour son association avec les dirigeants mondiaux. - GMT-Master II — Montre de pilote à double fuseau horaire développée à l'origine avec Pan Am en 1954, dotée de la lunette tournante bicolore distinctive.