Rolex / Submariner
Rolex Submariner
Collection profile · 1953
Iconic diving watch introduced in 1953, water-resistant to 300 metres, and one of the most recognised watch designs in the world.
Collection shots
Pronunciation & name
sub-muh-REE-ner
Collectors usually stress the third syllable: Submariner, not “submarine-er”.
Why it matters
The Submariner is the template for the modern luxury dive watch: rotating bezel, luminous dial, Oyster case, and enough design continuity to make old and new references immediately recognizable.
Key references
Collection timeline
- 1953 — Rolex introduces the Submariner as a purpose-built waterproof dive watch.
- 1969 — The reference 1680 brings a date display to the Submariner line.
- 1988 — The 16610 era modernizes the Submariner Date with sapphire crystal and updated movement architecture.
- 2010 — Ceramic-bezel Submariner Date references move the collection into its modern Cerachrom period.
- 2020 — Rolex updates the line to 41 mm references 124060 and 126610.
News
- Rolex updates the Submariner family to a 41 mm generation 2020 — The modern 124060 and 126610 references introduced new-generation calibres and refined case proportions while keeping the core Submariner design language intact. ↗
- No-date, black-date, and green-bezel Date references anchor the contemporary lineup Current collection — The official catalogue presents the Submariner as a compact family around Oystersteel references and the modern Cerachrom bezel system. ↗
- Explorer-dial Submariner 5513 sells for CHF 88,200 2021 — Phillips sold a circa-1963 Rolex Submariner reference 5513 with Explorer dial, showing how early and unusual dial configurations drive vintage Submariner interest. ↗
- Red Submariner 1680 sells for CHF 37,500 2015 — A Rolex Submariner reference 1680 “Red Submariner” sold at Phillips, a useful market marker for the first-date Submariner generation. ↗
- Prototype white-gold Submariner 1680 highlights the model family’s rare edge cases 2026 — Christie’s catalogued an exceptionally rare prototype 18k white-gold Submariner reference 1680, underlining how unusual materials and prototypes change the collector conversation. ↗
Fun facts
A design that barely needs a logo
The rotating bezel, Mercedes hands, round markers, and Oyster bracelet have become a visual shorthand for the entire dive-watch category.
Watchatlas editorial note
Green became a collector signal
Rolex green-bezel Submariner Date references turned a small color change into one of the easiest modern Submariner variants to recognize.
Watchatlas editorial note
FAQ
What is the most classic modern Rolex Submariner reference?
The 124060 is the cleanest modern expression: a no-date Oystersteel Submariner with calibre 3230 and a symmetrical dial.
What is the difference between the Submariner and Submariner Date?
The Submariner is time-only, while Submariner Date references add a date window and Cyclops lens. Modern Date references use calibre 3235.
Why do collectors care about the 5513 and 1680?
The 5513 is one of the great long-running vintage no-date Submariners, while the 1680 introduced the date display to the family.
More from Rolex
- Daytona
— Chronograph originally designed for racing drivers, named after the Daytona International Speedway. Among the most sought-after watches on the secondary market. - Datejust — Introduced in 1945, the Rolex Datejust is the brand’s foundational date-display dress-sport watch: a self-winding Oyster Perpetual that helped define the modern everyday luxury wristwatch through its date window, Cyclops lens, Jubilee bracelet and enduringly versatile design.
- Day-Date
— Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date was the first wristwatch to display both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full on the dial. Made only in precious metals and closely tied to the President bracelet, it has become Rolex’s flagship dress watch and one of the brand’s most recognizable status pieces. - GMT-Master II — Rolex’s GMT-Master II is the brand’s modern dual-time travel watch, descended from the original GMT-Master created for long-haul aviation. Introduced in 1982, it added independently adjustable local-hour functionality, making it especially practical for frequent travelers crossing time zones.